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While October brings to mind pumpkins, autumn leaves, football games, hayrides and corn mazes, it also is prime time for planting strawberries in Louisiana. Many gardeners do not think about strawberries until they see them for sale in spring, but planting in fall is the key to enjoying a productive harvest the following season.
Historically, Livingston and Tangipahoa parishes were at the heart of Louisiana's strawberry industry. Although commercial production is much lower than the peak years of the 1930s, local farmers continue to grow high-quality strawberries that supply markets and tables across south Louisiana. Many of these growers are currently preparing for another season.
Strawberry plants begin arriving on farms from late September through early October. By then, growers have already prepared their fields and are ready to plant. Home gardeners should follow the same schedule. Local nurseries typically begin stocking recommended strawberry varieties this month.
The modern garden strawberry has a fascinating history. Although wild strawberries have existed for centuries, the cultivated strawberry we grow today originated in the mid-1700s from a cross between the North American species Fragaria virginiana and Fragaria chiloensis, a species native to Chile. First developed in France, this hybrid, Fragaria × ananassa, eventually spread around the world and was in commercial production by the early 1800s.
Commercial strawberry production in Louisiana began in the late 1800s with Italian and Hungarian immigrants who settled in Tangipahoa and Livingston parishes. Strawberries quickly became one of the region's most important agricultural crops. The industry flourished for decades before declining following World War II as labor shortages and industrial growth shifted the local economy.
Louisiana producers grow both short-day and day-neutral strawberry varieties. Short-day varieties flower when day length falls below about 14 hours while day-neutral varieties produce flowers regardless of day length. When planted in October, harvest generally peaks between late February and April. Earlier harvests are possible when blooms are protected from frost and freezing temperatures using row covers or frost blankets.
Strawberries perform best when planted on raised beds or elevated rows. Commercial growers typically use plastic mulch to reduce weed pressure and warm the soil during winter and early spring, but traditional straw mulch also works well in home gardens. In addition to suppressing weeds, mulch helps reduce fruit rots and other diseases by limiting soil contact with developing berries.
Plantings in containers also can be a successful way to grow strawberries if space is limited. Choose a container at least 8 inches deep with drainage holes. Fill the container with a high-quality potting mix and space plants 6 to 8 inches apart.
Success with strawberries depends on four key factors: sunlight, soil pH, fertility and irrigation. Choose a site that receives at least six to eight hours of direct sunlight each day and has well-drained soil. Raised beds are especially beneficial in areas with poor drainage. Strawberries grow best in slightly acidic soil with a pH between 5.8 and 6.2. A soil test can help determine both pH and fertilizer requirements before planting.
A general preplant fertilizer recommendation is 1 pound of 13-13-13 fertilizer per 10 linear feet of row incorporated into the soil 10 to 14 days before planting. Strawberries also benefit from soils rich in organic matter. Adding compost or well-composted manure before planting can improve soil structure and drainage. Space plants 12 to 18 inches apart within the row. To promote healthy growth and fruit development, sidedress plants with 1 to 2 tablespoons of calcium nitrate per plant in both early January and February, then again in mid-March. Gently incorporate the fertilizer into the soil around each plant.
Proper planting depth is critical. Strawberry transplants are typically sold as bareroot plants, and planting holes should be large enough to accommodate the roots without bending them. Be careful not to bury the crown, the growing point located just above the roots. Plants set too deeply often decline or fail to thrive.
Drip irrigation or soaker hoses placed beneath the mulch provide the most efficient irrigation. Water plants thoroughly at planting and daily during the first week after transplanting. After establishment, strawberries generally require about 1 inch of water per week. Supplemental irrigation may be necessary during dry periods when rainfall is insufficient.
While strawberry plants tolerate cold weather, blooms, flowers and developing fruit are vulnerable to frost and freeze injury. Tightly closed blooms can tolerate temperatures as low as 20 to 22 degrees F. However, open strawberry blossoms can be damaged when air temperatures fall below 30 degrees F, and unopened flower buds can tolerate slightly lower temperatures. Because strawberries planted in October often begin flowering during late winter, protecting blooms during cold events is essential for maximizing early yields.
The most effective method of frost protection for home gardeners is to cover plants with frost blankets or row covers when temperatures are forecast below 34 degrees F. Apply covers in the late afternoon before temperatures begin to drop and secure the edges to trap heat rising from the soil. Remove covers once temperatures warm the following day to allow sunlight and pollinator access.
Lightweight, floating row covers work well for routine frost protection and can provide several degrees of temperature moderation. Avoid using plastic sheeting directly on plants, as plant tissue that touches the plastic may be damaged during freezing weather. If plastic must be used, support it above the plants with hoops or a simple frame.
Monitoring weather forecasts throughout winter and early spring is especially important during flowering and fruit development. A few nights of frost protection can make the difference between a light harvest and weeks of abundant berry production.
Several pests and diseases can affect strawberries in the home garden. Slugs are among the most common pests, feeding on ripening fruit and leaving irregular holes. Mulching with pine straw, reducing excessive moisture and harvesting fruit promptly can help reduce damage. Sap beetles and other fruit-feeding insects also may be attracted to overripe berries, so remove damaged or decaying fruit regularly.
Spider mites can become problematic during warm, dry weather, causing leaves to appear speckled or bronzed. Regular irrigation and occasional inspection of leaf undersides can help detect problems early. Use sprays of insecticidal soap when populations are high.
Diseases are often encouraged by wet conditions and poor air circulation. Botrytis fruit rot, commonly called gray mold, is one of the most common strawberry diseases. Proper plant spacing, adequate air movement, mulching and harvesting ripe fruit promptly can help reduce infections. Using drip irrigation instead of overhead watering also lowers the risk of many foliar diseases.
Home gardeners who start with healthy transplants, maintain good sanitation and monitor plants regularly often can prevent serious pest and disease problems without the need for pesticide applications.
This October, take a break from pumpkins and consider adding strawberries to your garden. By planting now and providing proper care throughout the season, you'll be rewarded with sweet, homegrown berries next spring. With attention to irrigation, fertility and pest management, a productive strawberry patch can provide weeks of fresh fruit for the family to enjoy.
